Why does leather need care?
Leather is skin, and like skin it dries, cracks and stiffens when it loses moisture. Sweat, mud, manure, salt and repeated wetting speed that damage. Regular cleaning and conditioning keeps fibers flexible and strong.
Different leathers need different care. Finished leather, oiled leather, suede and rawhide behave differently, so check what you have before choosing a product.
Gear used around animals or in wet work gets more wear and needs care more often.
- Brush off dirt after work
- Wipe salt and manure from boots
- Test products on a hidden patch
How do you clean leather?
Remove loose dirt with a soft brush or cloth. Then wipe with a damp cloth and a mild leather cleaner suited to the type. Avoid soaking, harsh detergents and strong solvents, which can strip oils and weaken stitching.
Let leather dry slowly at room temperature, away from stoves, fires and direct heat. Forced drying shrinks and cracks leather, and stiff boots are a common result.
Boots and work gloves take the most abuse on a farm. Rinse off mud and manure soon after work and let them dry slowly, because dried-in salt and moisture are what crack leather.
- Brush off dirt first
- Use mild cleaner for the leather type
- Never dry near direct heat
- Test any product on a hidden spot first
How do you condition it?
Once leather is clean and dry, apply a conditioner made for it in thin, even coats and let it absorb. Too much can make leather soft, greasy and weak, so more is not better.
Condition when leather starts to look dull or feel dry, and before storing it for a season. Follow the maker's instructions for each product.
Waterproofing products exist for different leather types and can make wet work easier. Read the label, because some darken or stiffen certain leathers and are not suitable for suede.
How should you store leather?
Keep leather in a cool, dry place with air moving around it. Damp storage leads to mold, and sealed plastic bags can trap moisture. Stuff boots with paper to hold their shape, and hang straps and tack so they do not kink.
Watch for mold, which shows as white or green fuzz. Wipe it off outdoors if you can, let the leather dry, and clean and condition it afterward.
A set of hand tools for leather is inexpensive compared with replacing gear. Look for secondhand sets at auctions and yard sales and ask neighbors who work leather.
What simple repairs can you do?
Worn stitching on straps, belts and bags can often be restitched with strong thread and a harness needle. Loose rivets, snaps and buckles can be replaced with hardware made for leather. Small cuts may be glued and stitched.
A leather awl, a pair of stitching needles, waxed thread and an edge tool make up a starter kit. Practice on scrap pieces before you work on gear you rely on.
For safety-critical items such as saddle straps, cinches, bridle parts and climbing or work harnesses, have a professional check any repair before you trust it with your weight or an animal's.
- Awl and waxed thread for stitching
- Replacement hardware made for leather
- Practice on scrap first
When should you replace instead of repair?
If leather is cracked through, brittle, or the stitching pulls out of rotten material, the repair will not hold. For gear that supports weight or restrains an animal, replacement is safer than a patch.
A saddler, cobbler or shoe repair shop can often renew boots and tack that you cannot repair yourself.
Keep leather away from rodents and insects in storage. Cedar blocks, tight containers and regular checks are helpful, and any product used near animals should be kept out of their reach.
- Cracked or brittle leather will not hold a repair
- Rotten material cannot hold new stitching
- Safety gear should be replaced, not patched
Where can you learn more?
Ask local riders, farmers and craftspeople. Many have decades of experience keeping tack and boots in good order. Extension offices, 4-H groups and local leather workers sometimes run classes.
Start with care before repair, and repair before making new items.
Key takeaways
- Clean, dry slowly and condition leather in thin coats.
- Never dry leather near direct heat.
- Store in a cool, dry, ventilated place and watch for mold.
- Have a professional check repairs on gear that bears weight or controls an animal.
- Dry leather slowly, condition it lightly and store it with air moving around it.
Sources and further reading
Last reviewed: November 12, 2026. Written by the Rural Farm Life Editorial Team. See our editorial policy.