Tree Species Selection

What should I know about my site first?

Start with what the land is like: soil texture, drainage, depth, acidity, slope, sun and wind exposure. A local soil survey and a basic soil test tell you more than any guess. Your extension office can explain how to collect a sample. A soil survey from your county conservation office or NRCS describes the soil types on your land in plain terms and is a strong starting point. Combine it with what you see in the field after heavy rain and in dry spells.

Also note how wet the ground gets in spring and how dry it gets in summer. Trees suffer most at those extremes.

Take photos of your site in different seasons. They show what a snapshot visit misses, such as spring flooding or summer scorching.

How do I match species to purpose?

Ask what the tree is supposed to do. Timber needs species with good form and market value in your region. A windbreak needs dense, hardy trees. A buffer needs species that tolerate wet feet. Wildlife plantings want food and cover. Write your goals down in plain words, such as shade for horses, a windbreak on the north side or a woodlot for firewood in the future. Clear goals make species choice much easier and help others advise you.

Make a short list of purposes and rank them. A single tree rarely does everything well, and mixing species can cover several goals.

Write down the species you plan to plant and why. A short rationale keeps you honest when a seller offers a different one at a discount.

Why do native species usually do better?

Native trees have adapted to local climate, soil and insects, and they support more wildlife. They are often more resilient to local conditions.

Native does not mean automatically right for every spot, however. A native species planted on the wrong soil will still fail. Ask a local forester which natives suit your site.

Check whether a seed source or nursery grows locally adapted stock. Local adaptation often matters as much as species.

How do pests and diseases affect the choice?

Some species are under serious threat from introduced pests or diseases in many regions. Planting a species that is already being hit hard is a gamble. Ask your state forestry agency or extension office which species are currently risky in your county and which have good records. Another approach is to look at what grows well in healthy woods or old farm lanes nearby. Trees that have lived there for decades already prove they can handle your local weather and soil.

Diversity is a good defense. A planting with several species is less likely to be wiped out by one problem.

• Ask which pests are active near you
• Avoid planting heavily with a single species
• Pick seed sources adapted to your region

Where should I get seedlings?

Buy from sources that can tell you where the seed came from and what climate it suits. Seed from a very different climate can struggle or fail. State nurseries and other reputable sources can supply species lists and planting guidance.

Be cautious of deals that sound too good. Ask about the size, age and grade of seedlings and how they were stored.

Ask the seller to put species and seed source on the invoice. If problems arise later, that record is useful.

What about climate change and shifting conditions?

Conditions are changing in many places, and trees planted today will live through decades of different weather. Some foresters now recommend including species from a bit farther south or from drier areas. This is a topic of active research and opinion. This area changes quickly, so check with an extension forester every few years instead of relying on an older article, including this one.

Ask local extension foresters what they advise for your region rather than following a single rule. A mix of species and ages is a sensible hedge.

Be skeptical of anyone who claims a single miracle species fits every situation. Local trial and error, shared by neighbors and agencies, is the best guide.

Who can help me decide?

County extension offices, state forestry agencies, NRCS and conservation districts are good starting points. Many offer free site visits or species recommendations.

Bring your soil test, a map and your goals. The more you share, the better the advice.

A conservation district staff member may also know which neighbors have had success, and you can visit those plantings to see them for yourself.

Last reviewed: November 12, 2026. Written by the Rural Farm Life Editorial Team. See our editorial policy.